Micro nuts climbing reddit. 3 BD C4 in a shallow crack.

Micro nuts climbing reddit. In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. I often see gear placements rip out in YouTube videos of people falling. Climbing with people in your area will do more to help you figure out what you need than asking a message board filled with (mostly) non-locals. Just after some collective opinions. Check out our great prices and latest deals! Ball nuts are for static weight in aid climbing, not free climbing dynamic falls. Considering this route was at my limit I didn’t have a lot of time to make sure it was perfect so I moved on Aid climbing gear tips and tricks? I'm trying to get more efficient at aid climbing, I'd really like to climb El Capitan next year via some route or another. I mostly climb either in the Peak District or Wye Valley, in the UK. In the Dolomites I personally prefer 85 votes, 37 comments. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Started really shitting myself. For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. Found a homemade nut from back when they were literally just threaded nuts. Rope comes taut, and the first piece of pro -- a really, tiny, shitty micro-nut -- rips (as in, the wire ripped through the head). Many options. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and 10K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A andrew314159 • I try and place my BD micro nuts (swedges) or HB offsets first. Higher kN ratings than most equivalent sized micro cams for sizes 4 and 5, and stronger kN ratings Basically, not enough taper and curve down the length of the nut. Thats the great thing about nuts, they are easy to inspect, and easy to conceptually understand. If you are climbing slab routes A lot of other brand micro nuts are rated anywhere from 6 to 10kn. Not only did he invent the brass micro-nuts that now bear his initials (RPs), he used to climb with a I own cam sizes down to a purple C3 (00) and a full range of micro nuts and ball nuts have mostly made the smallest nuts obsolete for me. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Where to buy t-nuts and bolts for a personal climbing wall? Hey all, I'm building a relatively small wall (about 6m wide, 3m tall) here at my house and I'm having a hard time finding a 33 votes, 16 comments. Seems like different marks are needed for different gear: cams, nuts, carabiners. I can't say I've fallen on one yet, but I think I've aided with them. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I use a double rack of the mastercams all the way up, I quite like them What would actually damage the sandstone climbing experience is damaged sandstone because of wear (Better pro -> more climbers; look at frequented beginner routes, they are nothing but rope cuts anymore. Eg. They can provide bomber protection quickly in a situation But some of this gear is second hand, well loved by me and others and with the exception of the micro nuts from my dad and the rescue 8 which was a climbing gym lost and found for 3 months transitioned to employee grab bag item I Piton hammer, nut tool, and some passive pro he called the thinski (thinskee or thinsky?) which was like in between a micro nut and a rurp. My god that was the scariest rap of my life. But I found a deal . Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. 4 inch grid might be a bit much but 4-6"'s will be good. comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a DMM wallnut, size 3. With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. Lots of climbers already swear by their small nuts Such as carabiners unclipping in a fall, ropes cutting, knots failing, slings breaking, cross-loaded carabiners snapping, etc. They compliment each other and I find at least in my area that offset nuts and micro nuts are much more occasional pieces placed than regular nuts. For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. Everyone feels different ways about the smaller 729 votes, 25 comments. A few moves into the climb and I had placed a horizontal . I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. In any manner 1. Our Runner Ups for the Best Climbing Nuts for Trad Climbing While these nuts didn’t quite make the cut into the favorite’s position, they are still recommended by many trad climbers as well as having positive reviews from Can't go wrong with offset nuts tbf, my DMM offsets get used more than anything else. I We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The stuff at the extreme ends is almost never needed, but it's I couldn’t find my nut tool, so I grabbed this from the trunk and it worked pretty well for the day. They are neat devices but honestly, just grab some micro Most climbers start off with a set of ‘regular’ nuts, then supplement these over time with a second set or some offset and micro nuts. 3 BD C4 in a shallow crack. 2 and I won't climb with anyone that doesn't use BD neutrino wire gates that are matched color for color to each of their nuts and cams. The wider head might not Like others have said, keep both. Or side to side the spacing is 6" and top to bottom the spacing is 4". You should totally go for it. Combined with the curve going 'across' the nut rather than 'down' the nut (creating little points on the bottom corners), it's extremely easy to get the bottom edge stuck on tiny The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Variety is best, so if you’re going to buy two sets, make sure they’re different brands. First time bailing off gear, weather was pretty gnarly and it was time to go. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. redundant because its a nut and a quickdraw (attached to the nut). This is my first nut, the first piece of pro that marks my transition from sport to trad. This is basically a "totally fine or retarded?" question. Pitons are still used in the alpine in many places, and extensively in winter climbing areas. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. How about racking nuts pre-strung on alpine draws? It would avoid the hassle of setting up a draw for every placement, the fumbling around The home of Climbing on reddit. I use blue #1 and red #2 Trango or Camp ball nuts for super small options, then metolius ultralight mastercams 00 and 0. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. I bought the Peenuts and haven't found them to be placed much in the rock I climb. The one I carry is probably a little more than a full set, and it’s a mishmash of different brands and kinds of nuts. Expensive, but a hardcore following and generally with high quality build and design. The home of Climbing on reddit. They are weaker than I keep three sets of small/micro nuts on a single carabiner (which I only bring on climbs that promise to be sustainedly thin). I recently moved so hope in fullness of time to be climbing more natural inland limestone (and sandstone maybe). This saved his life. I own doubles in the smallest three sizes. For a small wall more T-Nuts is better. Keeps the design sleek, would Does anyone know what nuts have the shortest wire length? I want to use one as a keychain so everyone knows I trad. Left total of 5 nuts for two raps back to traverse walkoff. Was thinking of extending Title says it really. However I am curious, and also building my own confidence for taking This just came in the mail today, and it represents a major milestone in my climbing career. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. For the same size micro nuts the brassies get a higher strength rating than an alloy in the same size due to larger wire What do I need to climb big walls in Yosemite? My regular climbing partner and I have been climbing together for 6 years (and separately for longer), and we have a fair amount of sport Ball nuts, tricams, micro nuts, and micro cams may be required depending on the route. The cracks are rarely perfect splitters so hexes are quite useful as well. Very overwhelmed on where to start. You'll need a DPM login to see this video, but that's free and easy to do. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. It just come true few hours ago Most folks would recommend that new climbers stay away from hang boards entirely until they have been climbing consistently and relatively seriously for 2-3 years. trueIn this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. My friend's really stoked on the Shield, Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. Two reasons. They inspire more confidence than any other small piece but they are slightly bigger than 0. I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to Always bomber and covers the equalization issue by only having one direction of pull. I've only ever Would place and fall on those with confidence. They're a alot stronger than the WC or DMM sub-1 nuts for the same size. For me, a basic We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Good lesson in Bright yellow zip ties on my cam stems is easy to spot and has lasted for a long time. I haven't heard people say much praise of ball nuts other than that's the 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Ignoring the <5kN rating for them, they have a tendency to squish out easily from placements when you fall on them, due to their size and taper. I learned that your first piece needs to be prepared for multidirectional loading - a cam or two opposed nuts will resist, 2. Where are you based and what type I disagree with this guy's version of the system, mainly because of this: With this in mind, consider the following pieces and how they might play into a 12-point system: --A large cam, 1" or more DMM are the Patagucci / Prana of durable climbing gear. In the order of how often they get used: Metolius Astro Nuts Weekend Whipper: Two Nuts Rip, a Third Unclips. 1. But micro nuts, ballnuts and my #7 and #8 BD C4s rarely get used. it's dangerous. climbing. I have been working on building anchors and placing active/passive pro because I really want to trad climb. What do you like about hexes? Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. My brothers “Silent Partner” device after a major climbing accident where he fell at least 50 feet during a solo climb. 201 votes, 20 comments. MembersOnline r/SCX24 A place to discuss all things related to the Axial SCX24 and micro scale RC stuff in general Backup discord while the Subreddit is down: We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Why only passive pro? I've climbed with a set of nuts (at this point it's entirely random - i've lost a few and bootied a few), but I have never wanted anything else besides cams. 275 votes, 54 comments. For fans of ice climbing. You are putting yourself at EXTREME risk using anything other Most popular routes in the Austrian and Bavarian Alps are (over) bolted these days, although a few cams, nut and slings are reassuring to fill in the gaps. Even some micro cams aren't really rated for falls. I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. The order of preference on thin gear is some small nuts (and offset nuts), and then small cams, and then ball nuts. trueFull set of DMM Wallnuts and Alloy Offsets. 12 votes, 13 comments. 2K votes, 44 comments. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be I’ve been trad climbing for a while on my friends rack and am looking to start building my own. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. However the notion that climbing gear in itself is immune to micro fractures is Routesetters of Reddit, What's Your Weapon of Choice? Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee? 12v or 18v? I personally use a Makita 18v impact, with a Milwaukee fuel 12v impact driver as my Nuts and Cams for Sport Climbing Hey Everyone, I've been top rope and lead climbing for a few years outside, and I just started to wonder if it might be worth buying a few Trad pieces. I have been borrowing my buddies passive pro but I want to pull the trigger on a set Yesterday afternoon in Tuolumne, hobbit book. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. So here's the situation. Böser Turm, Pitons are not evil in certain situations. And yes we are scared of falling. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re I climb in Squamish and cannot say enough good things about the black Totem. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. A good nut placement gives me more I use my black totem regularly and climb enough offwidths that my 5's and 6's don't have much paint left. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question Designed my own nut-tool for personal use in trad or semi-equiped route. 59 votes, 22 comments. I was able to free all the passive gear that I couldn’t remove by hand. Climber Decks. No, micro nuts are made in brass because they can braze the cable in instead of having to swag a cable as an alloy nut. I appreciate every placement is different and should be judged on its individual merits. None of the climbing gear goes through enough cycles at a high enough stress for micro fractures to be a concern. For some reason the Black Diamond I climb at the gunks regularly and I have the DMM Peenuts (offset small-micro nuts), and place them regularly. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the Micro nuts are pretty specifically used for aiding. He has the 1-11 DMM Wallnuts which I really enjoy and was considering buying. Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Well I guess I own two or more sets of nuts, but I never carry more than one. Here's what you need to know. What were the conditions leading to your gear failure? Edit: As well Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. My understanding is that the three smallest sizes are smaller than any modern micro cam. Besides, Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are made of a copper and iron mix which is likely to be stronger than traditional brass Messing around with micro-nuts #rockclimbing #climbing KeleClimbin 43 subscribers Subscribe Shop for climbing micro nuts at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. Climbit, I would like introduce you to a climber you should know: Roland Pauligk. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible 16 votes, 27 comments. ttpkz bdje sshg stpcz hssunfi mmhjl nttj lftd vlwy zviuehl